This is awesome. I’ve been wanting to make a speaker. I think there are a lot of possibilities in a 3d printed enclosure that do not exist with conventional building methods. Something I’d like to try is blending wood and a 3d print, perhaps wood top and bottom with a 3d printed center.
Thanks for sharing.
I made a queen but I started with some plans from Ana White and changed things as I saw fit, either because I had tools that allowed me to use better methods or I wanted a different look…
Here’s a crappy picture, it weighs like 300 pounds
Even just getting the user grounds and fines out would require at least a gallon of water.
True, but I drink coffee daily and only do laundry every week or even two weeks some times. So although that may work for some, it would not work for me.
So my issue with this is the amount of water you need to use to clean it. Paper is compostable and bio-degradable.
I haven’t read every single reply but the vast majority say probably not.
My experience is basically the opposite of everyone here. I bought a refurbished gaggia classic for $275 in like 2012 or so. I use it daily. It’s not hard to use, and in fact my 5 year old can pull a shot all by himself.
There is a comment that for the same prep home espresso won’t be as good as commercial because the machine quality is lower.
I’m sorry but IMO this is 100% wrong.
As long as there’s nothing wrong with your machine, water, or beans, there’s no difference. The goal of an espresso machine is to supply 9 bars of pressure. The coffee doesn’t care if the machine cost $400, $4000, or even $12,000.
The reason commercial machines are so expensive is really twofold. Mainly they are built to be able to pull shot after shot all day every day for decades. The second thing is that commercial machines are pretty much universally multi group dual boiler setups where you can steam and pull 3 shots at the same time. So not only do commercial machines require the highest quality stuff, but they need 3, 4 or more copies of everything.
But again the goal of the machine is to supply heated water at 9 bars of pressure. The results will be the same in any machine that can accomplish this goal, the cost difference basically boils down to how nice the machine is to use, and what extra features it has.
The grinder on the other hand makes a huge difference. But, you don’t have to spend a ton to match cafe quality. A baratza encore will do the job but not well. Step up to the sette and you will be able to get close.
Lastly is the beans. Now this is an area that you will have to research, but I found a local roaster that mainly sells to local cafes and hotels, but is also is open to the public. His coffee is fresh and I really enjoy it.
The last thing is that tricky statement “for the same amount of prep.”
Cafes pretty much do the very minimum. Press a button on the grinder, get a volumetric dose that should be within 1.5g or so, quickly tamp, pull a shot, and move on to the next customer. I’ve even started seeing mechanical automatic tampers being used.
You on the other hand will (likely) be weighing beans with sub gram accuracy, checking the machine temperature, carefully distributing the grounds, carefully tamping or maybe using a calibrated tamper… Etc.
You will be putting in more prep just simply because you have to. You don’t have the equipment that cafes do that will make the process as easy as pushing 2-3 buttons. But that’s okay. If you enjoy espresso you will enjoy the process and it’ll become a hobby more than anything.
But that last part is the key. Are you willing or ready for espresso to become a new hobby? Yes? Buy a machine. No? Keep using aero press. Or do some else. Only you know what you want.
My first email was Firstname_Lastname@aol.com. When aol became insufferable and a challenger appeared, I made Firstname.Lastname@gmail.com.
Gmail lets you add "."s anywhere and it’ll still work, so all my spammy or whatever things I sign up for are Firs.T.Nam.E.L.Astnam.E@gmail.com or some random variation. Makes it easy to delete all the junk.
I got a delta 36-725T2, it was around $650 when I got it, looks like it’s gone up around $50 since then, but I still think that’s a good deal.
The fence is super solid, the saw is on wheels but they retract for a super stable feel, I really like it.
That being said, if you can’t buy a quality new saw (plan to spend at least $500 and harbor freight is NOT quality) I would start scouring the classifieds.
Any older craftsman 10" saw will be worth a look. Delta, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Rigid are also solid brands.
You should mainly narrow down if you are looking for a portable saw or not.
If you have an area you can dedicate to woodworking, I would highly recommend a cabinet or contractor saw. The stability and capacity you gain over a bench top or job site saw cannot be overstated. That said, if you do need a portable saw I would recommend a job site saw over a bench top model if you can afford it.
I cannot make any recommendation on portable saws, but for me, I was between the Rigid R4560 and the Delta. I ended up getting the Delta simply due to the fact that I felt the fence was a bit more stable. There are upgrades for both models, so really it’s just a personal preference.
It really sucks the joy out of listening to those songs.
Does it tho?
Really?
Why are you so mentally invested in that song and other people’s opinions of it?
Idk, but we have one 30 minutes or so away. Need a restaurant license or some shit to shop there.
“Nobody ain’t doin’ nothing’ wrong”.
I’ve always heard it more as “ain’t nobody doin’ nothing wrong”
…“Don’t not go there” over “Do go there”…
So many tour guides for cities say things like “do not skip going to” or similar. It’s just a linguistic choice.
Mulva?
Many people do just that. There are whole companies that will sell you adapters to allow you to do this. You can even go without a clutch to save a lot of rotating weight if you don’t mind having to finesse the pedal a bit when shifting.
I’ve never seen an electric car that used a CVT, normally they are just direct drive. Like the motor spins a reduction gearbox, which is directly connected to the wheels. There is only one gear, not even a reverse, the motor just spins backwards to move the car backwards.
That is also why smaller electric cars typically top out around 80-120mph, and you need a very powerful one to go 150+ like a Tesla.
The issue is that at low speed the motor has to spin very slowly which requires immense torque. This is generally overcome with a reduction ratio. The less reduction the faster you can go, but if your motor is not powerful enough then you won’t have enough torque on the steepest hills etc.
Also beware that in the US what you might find as linseed oil is actually not pure linseed oil and contains all kinds of hardeners and evaporative ingredients to help it cure faster for furniture use. This kind is NOT food safe.
I have been using very light coats of flax seed oil which is designed for cooking on my wooden utensils and cutting boards with good success. You can also use a purpose designed cutting board wax like beeswax for utensils.
“flavor” lol
Which direction do you move your finger to access the next song on your phone when. Looking at a play list.
Your finger moves up then taps the one you want.
You could just as easily say that next should be up.
Both are wrong.
Next should be left, volume should be up / down.
Having grown up in the tape era, the right button being next / fast forward just make sense.
I can see on a screen that you’d scroll down to get to the bottom of a playlist, but isn’t your finger moving up?
This is the classic problem of inverted vertical controls or not?
Just avoid it altogether and make the back / skip button left / right respectively, and volume be up / down which just makes obvious sense.
It’s been a while since I’ve done long exposure photography and composites, but my recollection is that excessive noise is a symptom of long exposure and high ISO, and stacking multiple shorter exposures into a composite will significantly reduce the noise of the final photo.