You would want something like this. The important part is that it comes in two pieces so you can install it without having to disconnect anything to pass it through. The brushes are to resist airflow, but they are obviously not going to be airtight or pest resistant. For that, I would use expanding foam insulation. Those cables and pipes aren’t going anywhere, and if you absolutely had to replace one, removing the sprayfoam is a trivial effort compared to the rest of the job.

Split brushed plate for cable passthrough

Bolos?

Truck-san!

No, I believe that is a lifty-shifty.

Not going to state the obvious with Ricardo Montalban, but I always enjoyed William Campbell’s Trelaine. And yeah, Windom was solid as Decker. Great episode all around.

True, but I am talking about CD-Rs, as per above. I assume you know what those are.

All of my old PS-1 games on 25-30 year old CD-Rs work fine. You’d be lucky to get 10 years from an HDD. I start losing disks in my RAID 5 arrays at about 6 years, and if you are unlucky it could be under 3. I have a 10 year old USB stick (oldest one I haven’t lost yet) that has started failing. So CDs are looking pretty good long term. Would just be a pain to back them all up again, but you might only really have to repeat that once for a lifetime of use.

Yeah, and it’s gonna be on the Saturday after no matter what day that turns out to be.

Happened at a DC I worked at, but a little before my time. Someone thought it would be a bright idea to use the design of some 1970s Californian architectural prodigy in Canada. When winter hit, the humid air condensed on the inside of the uninsulated metal roof and it rained in the attic, eventually leaking out across the entire computer room ceiling. They had pictures that showed 6mm poly stretched out and taped above all the mainframes and DASD while water rained down from above, running off the sides of the plastic sheeting and pooling on the raised floor. They also used to throw wild alcohol-fueled Christmas parties, and climbed up on top of the racks so they could play games jumping from row to row. What a time to be employed!

I use a tiny drill bit to make a hole in the centre of either side of the damaged joint, then cut a piece of metal tubing (hobby shops sell them) or a piece of plastic such as filament from a 3D printer (getting a ~1cm piece of PLA from your local library is probably free) to use as a pin to fit into the holes and reinforce the joint. Then once you are happy with the fit, glue it all together. If it is really tiny, you may not be able to pin it and then glue might be your only hope. Depending on the weight of the parts and material, crazy glue is usually pretty good for most situations. With plastics, where I need it to grip right away and hold its own weight, I like Testors modeling cement. Way better initial hold than even the gel crazy glues.

Seriously. Four hands is enough to hold your cock, balls, phone and a tissue!

Of note, that stuff works great, but you need to be very sparing with it, as it very difficult to sand compared to the premixed stuff. Make sure you have it as close to the way you want it to look as you are able before you let it dry. A lot of drywallers use this stuff for pre-filling poor, uneven drywall board work before taping, as it is very hard stuff. But it can take a lot longer to dry that way than the bag would suggest. Sheetrock 90 turned into Sheetrock Maybe Tomorrow in my kitchen reno after I used it to replace sections along the edges of some damaged drywall that tore out when I removed the old tile backsplash.

My parents still have it! Always a favourite when visiting.

To crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women. Or cheese. I suppose either is good.