It has worked fine. No issues with stability or leveling.

Getting it to the right height is a bit of a hassle if you change material thickness frequently because in order to adjust it I have to remove the work piece and the honeycomb bed, turn the screw, add everything back to check if it’s right, and if not, repeat the process until it’s dialed in. Usually I am working with 3mm ply though so it’s not very often I need to fiddle with it, and when I need to work on something bulky it’s nice to be able to lift it without for added depth.

Hey there,

Lots of things over the past few years. I will list them here and just let me know if you want more details.

Most recently to oldest

*Built a new stand/rolling cart with laptop drawer and monitor mount

*Air hose regulator so I can easily toggle the air for the assist on and off without messing with the compressor valve

*Microcontroller based thermostat that triggers LED lights when water for the coolant gets too hot

*Cohesion 360 board so I can use lightburn and control power intensity from computer

*Secondary power supply to run case upgrades

*Extra case lights

*Intake fans

*Laser crosshairs

*Drag chain for air assist and laser cross hair wires

*analog Ammeter

*analog flow gauge

*Scissor lift

*Honeycomb bed

*Inline exhaust setup

A classic

The Ryan’s Steakhouse Incident. Stumbled across it over a decade ago and still the memory of it makes me laugh.

http://www.ihos.com/steakhouse.html

Cool! What do you use for finish?

I read somewhere that it takes around 150 hours of interaction to generate that bond of friendship between men.

That seems both a small number and a very daunting one given how many people live relative isolation today. Someone might say, join a club and make friends, but if that number is right that’s an hour long weekly meetup for three years.

Haha thanks

Yep, that software worked well for me. Eventually I upgraded the board and switched to LightBurn.

Those look great

😆

Thanks

Yes, and making very light passes. The other option is gluing sacrificial boards to the end and then cutting them off later.

Or skip planing and just sand, that is probably the safest.

Yep that would work too!

I figured it’s worth sharing mistakes for people to learn from.

That could work orI think I could potentially shorten the front legs so it tilts more forward. This is a few years old now, it’s mainly just my chair for sitting.

Nicely done 👍

Regarding power consumption I found this on the Trotec laser website. In the example they provide they are working with an 80watt laser so cut that in half for the K40. They are a commercial laser company so they are also assuming you are cutting every day.

https://www.troteclaser.com/en-us/learn-support/faqs/laser-power-consumption

In order to give you a specific figure for power consumption, we have drafted the following example:

A Speedy 400 laser machine with 80 watts laser power An average effective working time of 2 hours a day Of which 50% of the time with maximum laser power (80 > watts) and 50% of the time with half laser power (40 watts) This results in a power consumption of approx. 50 kWh per month, which corresponds to the consumption of 2 office PCs. This is always a surprisingly low value for many customers.

Looks like a nice gift!

I don’t think it actually pulls too much current, compared to other power tools. It’s powered off 115v, amps aren’t super high. Less than most of my tools.

I have not used blender or a 3d printer but I would guess it’s probably a lot easier to design since it’s 2d. There is a little more planning maybe because you have to visual how the 2d plans will come together in real life.

I think you would have no problem if you are already doing 3d printing

This is the way! I made a diy one that works well for my dust collector.