Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I’ve had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I’m pretty sure the filament is dry!
I love these! Thanks for sharing!
After sleeping on it, I remembered that my new heatbreak doesn’t feed the bowden all the way to the end of the nozzle like the stock one does, so I’m pretty sure I have it seated correctly. I’ll check it though, many thanks for the info! :)
I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.
I’ve generally had the best results with it. Ironically, before the upgrades I had almost no stringing.
I’m using a 0.4mm nozzle. I probably should have mentioned in the OP that I didn’t have problems before, but the upgrades have happened in addition to moving to Orcaslicer.
Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…
Thanks for the reply mate!
I didn’t think to mess with z-hop - I’ll give that a go, and I’ll do some testing to make sure the Bowden is seated correctly and the wipe on retract is actually happening - thanks!
The print in the image is a ‘torture test’, and just something I had on hand to illustrate the issue. I’m actually not fussed if there is still some stringing at the top, but other detailed prints were getting it pretty bad, including retraction towers.
Thanks. I’ll try that.
Hmm yes, good points. I’ll have another go with the previous filament.
To be fair, I need to replace the extruder and get a high flow nozzle anyway, which I think will make more difference to the flow rate than running hot.
What temperature are you printing at? When I was using Marlin I ran mine at about 200, and could probably have gone even lower. I also tuned linear advance which made a big difference.
I have found that some esun spools weren’t particularly dry when I got them. They sit in my dehumidifier which sits at about 20%, so they get dry eventually.
You can try coasting as well I think.
Yeah lower temps work, but I’m really trying to max out my flow rate so I want to run it as high as possible. Pressure advance really helps reduce ooze, and quality filament is obviously a must.
That site doesn’t load for me. I have just been using a retraction tower and running the tuning function from the command line.
In the end it was crap quality filament.
I keep my spools in a dehumidifier which I actually think is too dry. Some of the filament was brittle for the first 6" or so.
Yeah it was rubbish filament. Switched it out for some esun PLA+ and got much better results. I’ve updated my post, but final settings are:
Pressure Advance - 0.4 Retraction - 3.5mm Retraction speed - 35mm/s
Very happy with the results!
Thanks for your reply, I will give that a go.
After posting I thought to try a different brand of filament. It’s currently printing, so we’ll see how it goes.
As others have said, there should be no flavours imparted by the stainless.
Make sure to passivate before use with citric acid.
For cleaning, sodium percarbonate, PBW or even a caustic cleaner will work. At my brewery I use PBW, which works perfectly.
Rule no. 1 of brewing, record keeping! 😂
I’ve made 3 batches of mead so far. A sweet, a semi-sweet and a dry. My favourite by far was the semi-sweet, and it only took about a month to finish clear and be drinkable!
IBU production slows down over time. There will be some increase from 60 mins to 120 but the effect will be a lot less than say 40 to 60. Not saying there isn’t a difference, but that it won’t be that great.
See this paper for graphs of IBU production over time of the boil. You will see that almost all of the IBU production is in the first 10-15 mins, then it slows right down.
Obviously your taste is the ultimate decider however. If you find too much bitterness then shorten the boil addition, of course. I always add a 60 minute addition, even if it’s very small (5g for a 25L batch will do).
Your 60 minute addition isn’t going to get any more bitterness compared to adding it at 40 mins. I’d use a 60 min addition for bittering and throw the rest in at flameout, like an extended whirlpool.
Sounds like you know what you’re getting yourself in for, which is good.
I’d say make sure the clothes, especially the shoes are comfortable. You are on your feet all day long when brewing, so having comfortable footware is a must.
It’s all good mate! Thanks for the suggestion. When I first started printing I had that exact issue.