I’ve had some luck with attaching silicone pie mat to prints that I wanted to have a grippy surface.
Downside is it picks up any grime, dust, dirt easily. No biggie when you throw a silicone mat in the dishwasher, more of an issue when you can’t do the same with something 3d printed.
Another consideration could be large furniture non slip pads. Something made for putting on the feet of a couch/sofa for example, cut to size?
What about good ole Big Top Beer at my local Raytown market
Not sure. Like any field I suspect there’s specialties including people who do research/modeling vs consuming that data and advising based on it.
Code and snippets to analyze data work well when you can send chunks of it to multiple servers (think analyzing the effect of weather patterns).
Since a lot of that stuff is running on Linux (similar to cloud computing) it makes sense that people that write function/scripts/utilities would already be comfortable in that environment and use it as their daily driver.
What about a dab of hot glue as a kind of medium between the head of a bolt/screw and the plastic it’s in?
This way you get some of the “grip” from a malleable material that’s also pretty easy to get ahold of for most people.
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Depends on what kind of detector it is but alot of them use small amounts of radiation and a detector that triggers when the number of particles detected drops below some level.
That being the case any particulate large enough to interrupt the particles could cause it to go off.
For example high humidity misty water from a shower wafting over a detector placed over the bathroom door, etc.
And that’s the point of the game. It’s an art piece on the horrors of war.
A deep dark look at what war truly can be instead of the glorified way it’s often portrayed.
Heavy like This War of Mine and Papers Please
Another thing to consider is making a data only USB ( I use a sliver of electrical tape over the 5v+ line ) to stop any power draw between the usb port and the printer.
And, of course, check that you have a good power brick since shoddy ones always cause issues with pis.
To be honest sounds like you’ve got a gremlin jumping from one piece of equipment to another so maybe prayer, voodoo, holy water and or appeals to the deity of universal fundamental force of your choosing could help too.
It took a bit to get used to because the mindset is different but once it’s going it’s great.
I love that I can make config changes easily without having to compile firmware.
If you ever decide to take the plunge feel free to reach out since I did it with my ender 3v2 years ago. Not that it looks anything like the stock anymore.
Looks like somebody else already has the config working for it and a step by step guide for setting it up on your machine
https://artamis.me/projects/klipper_guide/
One thing to note is you don’t have access to the display anymore since the display on the ender 3 is proprietary. You use a web panel (I often use my phone for this with mainsail as my ui of choice)
That being said there are other displays that can work with it but I seldom use my display for anything anymore.
Ha. I missed this. I guess today I’m one of the lucky 10000
I can’t speak to specifics but I can give you some ideas.
So the obd port might have some basic info such as acceleration and turns since and/or at least torque/thrust readings that you can poll since insurance companies and others have devices that use them to track your driving (often paired with GPS which you don’t need)
So some arduino project that lets you plug in and poll that data and to establish a trigger for some audio could be fun.
http://arduinodev.com/connect-arduino-to-a-car-through-obd-ii-port/
Pair that with something else that lets you connect via auxiliary or Bluetooth so you can play it over the speaker and you might have something.
https://github.com/pschatzmann/ESP32-A2DP
This might be easier since a pi would be better suited to playback of audio and might be easier to get everything connected and to tinker with the Python to respond to certain readings
Very slick. Once it’s completed and has some time to work out the kinks you should tell Steve about it.
There’s the New York Subway if you can stomach the smell
Possible something on your motherboard has PCIe lanes that are dedicated to GPU when it’s slotted, otherwise they can be used for other devices?
For example here’s a post about m.2 slots that, when used, affect the PCI on a particular board. May be worth checking your boards manual to see if there’s something similar.
The answer not only seemed a HUGE disappointment, but a bit baffling. The pdf manual says if you occupy that 5th m.2 slot, which is the Gen 5 one, the Pci-E 1 slot is automatically downgraded to 8x. This I thought would be unacceptable if running a behemoth like the RTX 4090 I eventually plan to get, as it requires a lot of power and bandwidth.
I’ve used it for releasing an iPad screen adhesive as well as for warming cinnamon rolls so they’ll rise when our oven was in use.
Totally had the food wrapped with Saran Wrap all around and had something between the plate and the glass pan. To make sure nothing that wasn’t safe for food prep didn’t touch it and to stop from “cooking” the bottom by accident.
Funny timing. I just saw that a YouTuber I’m subscribed to has a scheduled live stream about 3D printed speakers.
I love the internet archive but yeah, there was just no way this wasn’t going to backfire. And by handling things the way they did they damaged the reasonable defense of archivist (not only for themselves) because publishers and others often cite that archival and backups are just “pseudonyms” “synonymous” for piracy.
They aren’t but the way this was handled made it impossible for them to argue otherwise and it also creates a legal precedent for lawsuits and judgments by publishers against others who are doing such work.
Apple, phonus mobilus?
Not natively no. What you’re looking for is this
Achieve true 3D printing with non planar slicing Note: Check the update below
Conical Slicing: A different angle of 3D printing
Not something easily done with slicers and there are hacks to do things like this but nothing that works out of the box and it’s a tough challenge with various nozzles, toolheads, material shrink properties
Edit: More recent update that could be of interest
Non-planar 3D printing in a modern slicer thanks to the community