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Cake day: July 1st, 2023

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  • I’m sure it’s not possible for everyone - but I essentially did this some years back - though more with Premiere than Photoshop - and therefore more Cinelerra/Kdenlive than Gimp/Krita.

    I ran a dual boot system from about 2008 until about 2015. If it could be done in Linux/FOSS, it was. If it couldn’t, it was done in Windows/Adobe software.

    I was self-employed, though I often did subcontracting work for a handful of media/umbrella organisations - so sometimes I had to use Premiere or Sony Vegas to carry on half-done projects I was handed.

    Bear in mind this was when you bought Adobe software and didn’t rent it - and you could also keep running an older version for years.

    Anyway, over time I used the Windows partition less and less, until I got rid of it entirely when I got a new computer.

    I had to work a bit harder one year, and I did miss out on a few projects - but mostly, I could do everything I could do previously, but it took a bit longer for a while until I adjusted to a different workflow.

    After that, you’re just saying “That’s a £2000 job”, “That’s a £200 job”, and meeting a deadline. Nobody really cares if it took 7 minutes longer to do, and I saved a lot of time not using Windows any more.

    Editing (and other design stuff) is a far smaller part of my overall work these days, but I still do a good chunk of projects over the year, and I’ve been 100% Linux for almost 10 years. No regrets.








  • I can’t personally, but I’ve installed/set up Linux systems for quite a lot of older people, and I think only one of them ever uses the terminal for anything. The rest just… use the computer.

    On the whole, they’re pretty much just using Libreoffice, Firefox and a few other bits these days. If something needs the terminal to fix, we’re already past the point where they’ve phoned me to pop round and fix it.

    These used to be Ubuntu systems, but I switched them all to Mint after having endless Snap permission problems with printers, USB sticks and other peripherals. Once up and running, it’s pretty low maintenance.

    I guess they don’t need to use the terminal, because I’ll go and do it if it’s necessary - but we are looking at once every few years. Not a lot of tech support needed.

    On my own machine, I probably use the terminal every day.




  • To my eyes, that’s exceptionally well done. I can spend 18 hours on doing something 20 times worse, so I wouldn’t worry about the time it took - rather be impressed with yourself for your ability to stick with it until completion.

    As others have said, you’ll learn tricks on the way, so if you make a second and third one, they’ll either be even better, or you’ll finish quicker (and if any bits are reusable with a copy/paste, significantly quicker).

    All in all, this is excellent and you should feel proud of what you’ve achieved :)





  • You’ve probably got your answer already, and some of this is already covered, but just in case, have some extra (too many) words:

    Yes, that is the hammer function on a combi drill.

    The functions on the clicky twisty bit are Hammer Drill (masonry), Drill (wood, metal, plastic), then your screwdriver settings, numbered 1-17 or whatever, which are basically to limit the torque at a certain amount. At 1 you can only drive a screw into warm butter, at the highest number, you can sink a screw far too deep into some timber - some middle number will stop it flush with the surface, for example. You can screwdrive on Drill mode if you don’t care for the torque limit.

    That drill will maybe do the job, though it’s very dependent on the hole diameter. You mention 20mm (2cm) elsewhere.

    Without looking at the full spec, assuming it’s cordless, that drill’s likely good for a 10mm hole in masonry. A bog standard £25 corded hammer drill from Argos will probably do you a 13mm hole (but you’ll need a socket and extension). An SDS drill (corded or cordless) will likely do 25-30mm.

    An SDS drill bit should do your 20cm deep hole with little issue. A normal masonry bit will possibly wear out a couple of times, depending on the concrete type/density.

    I’d have a poke at it with a size 5/6/7 masonry bit that you don’t mind replacing, and see how easy the material is to go through - some aerated concrete blocks could be drilled through with a sharp pencil :) Give it a 5 second burst, and if you’re all the way in, you’re probably fine. If you’ve barely scratched the surface, you’ll want an SDS drill.


  • You’re totally right for brand new kit, but for older kit I’ve found that’s swung hard in the opposite direction.

    For example, I was trying to help someone at the weekend setting up some old audio kit, a few printers and a slide scanner on their mac system, and it was a nightmare, and half of it’s still not working.

    You’re constantly getting stuck with "this device only works with these 3 versions of this software and those versions of software only works on these versions of MacOS and these versions of MacOS only work with these models of Mac.

    When I tested the devices on my laptop (Linux Mint), everything was detected instantly and worked with several different pieces of software (at least as far as you can test in a few minutes).

    As said, I get that’s not the case with newest kit, or kit that requires special proprietary software, but for a lot of older equipment, I absolutely can’t fault it.


  • Do you know any of the following:

    • what’s the WiFi card in it?
    • what’s the laptop?
    • what kernel version are you using?

    For an easy GUI way to find these, you can go to the

    bottom-left menu > administration > system reports

    Then go to the System Information tab.

    You should have the kernel i.e. 6.3.0-39-generic at the top

    Scroll down, and under network you should have something like Device-1 Realtek RTL8111/8168/8411 - that’ll be the WiFi card.

    In case you didn’t know, the Kernel contains drivers for things like WiFi and other devices.

    An older kernel tends to be more stable (the bugs have been fixed) - but it cannot contain the drivers for devices that didn’t exist at the time.

    By default, Mint is likely using the kernel 5.15, from 2022. If your WiFi device is newer than 2022, it won’t work yet. However, you can install a newer kernel (mine, above is 6.3.0). I had to do this to get the WiFi working on my Thinkpad p14s. This is quite simple and safe to do, and completely reversible if there are problems.

    There’s a chance if the WiFi card is particularly new or obscure, that it won’t work at all currently. We’re waiting on the company, or more likely a talented volunteer, to write the drivers.

    In this case, you may need to buy a USB WiFi adapter, for example TP-Link USB Wifi. I had to do this with my Dad’s laptop recently. Within the next year, he probably won’t need it anymore, as the drivers for the internal one will likely exist.