Seems like it could make wrestling news confusing.

The light is immaterial (lol) to the holograms existence. They are only solid via fancy forcefield transmitted from the holo emitters. For all intents and purposes they seem to only exist as programs within whatever computer operates the holo emitters, whatever or whatever that may be. The only limit on where they can be is the speed of the computer system and links within it. They can send holo programs between the alpha and delta quadrants, but are limited by the speed and this can only send smaller programs. The mobile emitter often gets transported, but that’s because they only have one. If the doctor is going somewhere with holo emitters they don’t need to be transported and can just be data transferred.

Personal rant follows:

!The whole hologram plot in Voyager is honestly poorly thought out, and it basically feels like if you followed their logic Chat GPT would be a protected federation citizen. I get that the writers wanted to give the doctor legitimized personhood, but it feels like they forgot to think about what that would mean for literally every other hologram. !<

!Like, they give that one species holograms to hunt, does that mean they invented a species doomed to be reincarnated as prey forever? Is, Moriarty sentient, and if so is trapping him in a simulation moral? If they just run a hologram long enough does it gain sentience? How are they testing for this? Does that mean Vic Fontane is sentient even though he probably would say he isn’t? What about that weird Irish bartender Janeway does - fair haven ran for a while, how long does it take? If you run a training program are you committing infanticide? Is turning off a hologram even moral?!<

Ah, ok. The Unifi stuff is a bit weird like that. I recommend installing the controller on a computer if you continue to have issues. You don’t have to run it all the time, just use it for config and then turning it off is fine. It’ll give you way more information and control over exactly how the AP is set up.

Which model is it? As far as I’m aware all the Unifi APs need the controller for config. It doesn’t need to stay running unless you want a couple features for large deployments but you do need to run it to set things up initially. The Air Max / uisp lines are the ones with web based config.

Do you have a continuously running unifi controller or is it only running when you do the config? Does it do the same thing with the controller opposite to how it is now (ie if you aren’t running it does it do it when you leave the controller on)?

Are you running the 2.4 and 5 as separate SSIDs or the same one?

Are you on the latest controller and firmware?

Custom keyboards took off because of mechanical switches. Back in the day people wanted mechanical switches because they last longer than membrane ones, and so you wound up with a bunch of companies producing relatively easy to manufacture mechanical switches. Those switches all felt and sounded a little different so you got people who wanted a specific feel and sound and it grew from there.

There hasn’t really been the same push with mice because even really cheap ones work really well. Optical sensors are way harder to produce than key switches, and while there are a few different ones on the market other than dpi and polling rate they kind of all act the same - it kind of either tracks right or it doesn’t. There’s no differentiation unlike switches that are “tactile” or “linear” or “scratchy”. And because of size restrictions you can’t really have the same kind of switches as keyboards use for the buttons. And unlike the really niche keyboard people who do their own PCB and machine their own case, making a good mouse on your own from scratch is way more difficult. They’re weird shaped and it’s much more difficult to change things like optical tracking algorithms compared to macros on a 40% keyboard. You can do a run of 100 super niche keyboards and make it work, but just the injection molds for one mouse mean you need to make 10000, which stops it being a project and makes it a business.

There are premium mice manufacturers, but in general they either are going super light, super ergonomic, or super functional - and honestly they have a hard time competing with a company like Logitech that can produce really similar features for a fraction of the cost and have a decent reputation to boot.

I believe you can change the scaling algorithm obs uses? Right click the source and go to “scale filter” is what Google is telling me, not at a computer right now. I think it defaults to bicubic which should be ok though? The switch does its own internal scaling a lot of the time and that can look pretty bad though, but unless you get into some serious shenanigans that’s basically baked in.

This is the correct answer - I know because I was there 10000 years ago and had to decide between this and buying a special case from koolance. Amusingly they still sell one for the outside.

They can also be handy if you have to do anything weird like route display cables from the GPU to the motherboard like for a thunderbolt display.

I found this video weird, because it seems like something you would post for a more general audience, but it front loads and spends a really long time on espresso machine maintenance. Even within his audience it feels like way more people will own and use a drip coffee machine, which they don’t spend much time on. Especially if you should actually put drip machine parts in the dishwasher - the manual often says it’s safe.

Propaganda from who? Big newspaper? Big book publisher? Big stick and wheel?

Doesn’t seem like you can new proper blades from my limited searching, but injector blades apparently work if inserted carefully.

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-christy-injecctor-blade-shave.454758/

I had a similar problem recently. I switched to a titanium heat break since I apparently have a habit of tightening the aluminum ones a bit too hard, and it was fine for a while but I started getting clogs basically every print at about the 10 minute mark that seemed like heat creep. I couldn’t figure out what the deal was since titanium should be even better about heat creep.

It turned out that the machining for the heat breaks might have been too rough I think? Or at least not “perfect” in some way. I had a ton of problems until I “seasoned” them with mineral oil. Basically throw a couple drops in the heat break with it at about 250. Obviously be very careful since it’s flammable. You could probably accomplish something similar with an old school filament oiler.

Often they serve areas where there’s basically no cell coverage. That’s why we used them when we did after trying a number of antennas and boosters. We’ve had neighbors put up 12m towers in conjunction with the WISP to get service.

It is and it isn’t, those are pretty standard fixed wireless rates. It’s largely used in pretty rural areas where you wouldn’t be able to get fiber or cable or often even DSL. They compete against things like hughesnet that’s more expensive and has something like a 15gb data cap. Or starlink for $150 a month and $500 of equipment and the weight on your soul of giving Elon money.

They often run wireless backhauls for tens of miles across multiple towers so bandwidth is pretty limited and setup and maintenance is somewhat specialized. Like yeah if you can get cable or fiber do that it’s way better. But when there’s no other option is not that bad all things considered.

If the signal is decent I’d bet there’s a problem upstairs too.

Going through Airbnb support really isn’t worth it and will take forever. Just message the hosts directly. If you have an Airbnb account you can be added as a guest on the trip by her and message them yourself if she doesn’t want to deal with it.

Ok I have an amount of experience with basically everything going on here so here’s what you should do:

First, find the listing and see if they have WiFi listed as an amenity. If they do great, you can complain to Airbnb as a last resort. If they don’t you can’t, which honestly probably isn’t going to change much unless they are turds.

Second, do a few speed tests around the house, especially next to the other duplex unit. On the Airbnb app, send a screenshot of them and say something to the effect of “hey we noticed the Internet is slow, are you having issues too?”

Either they never checked if the downstairs WiFi and there’s no signal, or there’s a problem with the Internet and they need to call the company. Both are pretty viable. Does your phone say 75% signal or -75db? -75db is not great, but 75% should be ok. If you get faster speeds near the other unit it’s likely their WiFi.

The other option is they have issues too. Fixed wireless can run into issues when things change like radar frequencies. They can call the company and get it fixed pretty quick. Even if they aren’t paying for the faster speeds the ping shouldn’t be anywhere near 600ms. Like, I lived with wireless internet for a long while and it’s slow or shouldn’t be that painfully slow.

Don’t just suffer through, often people don’t mention this kind of stuff and if the hosts aren’t on top of their tech they don’t know it’s an issue. There was an issue with the Wi-Fi firmware on a unit I do work for and the guests only mentioned it at the end of their month long stay. They should be willing to work with you especially if they advertise wifi but honestly probably even if they don’t. Like, just don’t be an ass about it and they’ll probably be pretty accommodating.

Yeah newsprint would be a pain in an inkjet depending on exactly what it’s like. It might not even be much thinner, it’s often a little “fluffy” so it can be printed fast.

If you take it in somewhere and get it spiral / coil bound that’s probably your best bet if you don’t want to do a binder. You can do it yourself but you basically need a little desktop machine to do the punching which is annoying unless you’re doing it regularly.

Traditional hardcover probably won’t work for you. That involves printing a bunch of booklets called signatures then sewing them together and it’s a whole thing. Basically there’s a reason well made hardcover books are expensive.

You could do perfect or tape binding pretty easy though. Essentially you glue all the edges to a backing and then wrap a cover around it. It works ok for low usage, but if you want it to lay flat or hold up to abuse you’ll have problems. You can kind of mitigate that by using a gpod spine backing but it’s not a perfect solution. If the copy you have isn’t already laid out for printing it may be worth it to edit it a bit so the contents are farther from the spine if you do that, but it makes printing a bit more complicated.

So, I’ve never pirated a book but I do have some printing and binding knowledge, so some of this might be off base.

If the original book isn’t fully chungus it’s probably printed on a low weight newsprint, a low weight coated paper, or something weird like vellum or scritta. Problem is most of that is going to be specialty and only really available in rolls or large sheets through a distributor.

Most of the thinner stuff you’ll be able to find in sheets has become a thing with fountain pen lovers. Look for Tomoe River or Bank paper. They are in the 50gsm range and should be a bit thinner than normal 75ish gsm copy paper. It’s going to be way more expensive than normal printer paper but it should be thinner. The other issue is actually getting your printer to reliably print on thinner paper. Home printers, especially inkjets, really don’t deal with thin paper particularly well. Lasers usually do better since they tend to use a different paper pickup and path, but they can still have issues.

Your printer should have a thin paper setting to reduce the amount of ink that it uses so you don’t get as much bleed. The other thing you’ll have to look out for is that those papers will take longer to dry than normal paper, so if your printer has a drying time you’ll probably need to set it as high as it will go. You might even want to wait a day before flipping it over for the duplex print. Which you definitely should some that will literally halve the size of the book. It will probably be fine anyway since this is likely a multi day project just given how long it will take to spit 1000 pages out of an inkjet.

Unless you absolutely need to have the whole thing with you all the time, I would consider printing it in volumes. Even if you duplicate sections like an index or glossary or reference section or whatever, you’re still probably going to have a lot less trouble and maybe spend less.

Clearly the writer hasn’t seen DS9. Morn is the show’s best asset, of course he has a figure. Excuse me while I go scour eBay for one.

If people make a mistake occasionally or are willfully ignorant that’s a user issue. If almost everyone in this thread is talking about how you should push a button every 5 seconds on a machine designed to automate tasks maybe that’s a design issue.