There is a UFS-II specification and even a PCIe version specifically for micro SD cards. It was all planned out, and it would have been trivial to tell consumers: “Yo need card with more contacts as shown in picture”. But no, the biggest manufacturer of flash storage is samsung, and they decided they’d rather sell higher storage capacity phones as a premium. Easy to do when you’re the second biggest manufacturer of of phones and apple already paved the way.

Nice list. I chuckled at the fact that the bitcoin section does not recommend bitcoin :) We’re also here on lemmy, if you ever need help or just want to say hi

It’s worth it for the dry storage and automatic loading alone. Printing multiple objects one after another on the same bed and same print job, but with different materials is also a great feature and huge time saver for small parts. For actual multi-material prints the best use cases are imo writing into the first layer with a different color or using 2 different non-adhering materials for a thin layer between supports and the part. All of these things require very little filament changes and significantly improve the usage experience.

You are probably right, and I hate it.

LPCAMM seems more useful overall as a product.

Only if you need 2-4 sticks, otherwise they take up too much PCB space. Look at servers and how a good chunk of their volume is filled with dozens of sticks. You cant simply lay them down flat.

Man this job posting is worse then all the garbage that companies put out. There will be very few people who tolerate KYC for non-paying volunteer internet janny job - and those who do should probably never be mods. Good luck tho, you’ll need it.

LPCAMM may have better specs, but DIMM requires a smaller area on the PCB and can make better use of the vertical space.

A slight heating is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. A microwave is fine tuned to heat food, or more precisely the water within. Other materials such as the glass on the back of the phone also absorb some energy, but only a tiny fraction.

People joke about this all the time, and I here the sarcasm in your comment, but technology has come far since the iphone 6 or 7.

Most high end phones have wireless charging build it. Between the receiver coil and the rest of the phone is a thin sheet of ferrite material to prevent the electromagnetic field from getting to the sensitive electronics. Battery technology has also improved a lot, so much that even relatively cheap phones like the Realme GT Neo 5 charge at 150W!

From the technical perspective the limit is the cable and connector, because there would be too much losses that heat up the cable to dangerous levels and rapidly degrade the contact area in the connectors. Manufacturers don’t want to deal with this security risk, not the increased RMA rates within the mandated guarantee period, so they artificially limit the charging rate.

Thing is: You absolutely can charge at higher speeds if you bypass the cable altogether! A microwave outputs usually somewhere between 150W-1000W, so stick to the lower end to be on the safe side. The screen of the phone must face down, because the charging coil is placed on the back. You also must prevent overcharging by setting the timer correctly: If your phone battery has 15Wh capacity, and you are charging with 150W, you must at most charge for 1/10 of an hour, or 6 minutes (less if you are just topping up your phone).

One final note: fast charging does put increased wear on the battery, so I only recommend to use it when you need it, for example when you need to make a flight and are already running late.

I mean they do have good infrastructure anyway, so it wouldn’t even cost them anything

NFTs require arbitrary data storage, which not all blockchains support (or are prohibitively expensive).

What filament do you want to use? Well tuned PLA might be able to bridge that far, no chance with PETG. What is your maximum acceptable sag?

It seems like the bridge lines do not attach to anything at the very end on the layer below. In Orca Slicer you need to enable “Ensure vertical thickness” to enforce that. I’d also rotate the bridge direction by 90°, this cuts down the length of the longest bridges by half. Bridge line spacing looks good to me. Make sure that the layer on top of the bridge is printed slowly and does not start in the middle, otherwise it will be pushed back and forth.

If it is just a mock-up, consider partially filling the interior or enabling “make overhangs printable”. Both will alter geometry, but so will excessive sagging.

A lot of people here commented “I do X and it works for me”, but I do not think that is good advice. While it might work fine for that person, there are too many variables that are ignored. Ambient humidity, filament type, printer model, slicer settings, model geometry/details - all of this has an impact on the final print quality.

A more controlled environment removes variables and therefor makes the print result more predictable. Drying filament and storing it properly takes a bit of effort, but it is easy step towards better results.

You don’t even need a dedicated dryer, just use your printers headbed, put 1-3 spools on it and a cardboard box with a few vent holes on top. Set the temperature according to the filament and let it run for 8 hours. Afterwards put the spools into a sealed container (4L cereal box works great), add some silica gel and your done. When it cools back down the relative humidity drops below 10% RH, which is so low that most hygrometers wont even measure it.

I’m casually printing PETG at 260°C, over 20mm³/s (about 300mm/s) and archive reproducible near perfect results with next to no stringing. With bare PLA drying may not matter, I’ve too little experience to give a definitive answer. If you have any composite filament (wood, carbon, sparkle, etc) you definitely should dry it anyway, because you do not know how much the filler changes the properties.

Oh and finally: I place new spools in containers with dry air (a tiny bit of silica gel in them) and measure the equalized humidity after a few days. Most spools were delivered with a humidity of 15-20% RH

please do not bring over reddit memes. Eventually someone will not understand the irony and keep doing it for real. thanks

I was thinking It would be best to simply offset the inner walls in the xy axis, so that the printer lays down the next extrusion in the groove between two of the previous lines. This is already done with the hexagon infill pattern in orca slicer, but not yet available for inner walls. It would also be helpful to adjust extrusion to deliberately create large grooves bewteen the lines. Outer walls and cosmetic features should of course printed regularly.

The advantage to OP’s approach would be reduced complexity, less z-hopping and reduced risk of collision with already printed parts.

Normally the toolhead should never hit any object. If it does, and the cover detaches, it can be detected and the printer stopped before any significant damage is caused. Fallen off cover > broken machine.

The cover needs to be detachable to change or replace the hotend, and you need to have the cover for basic protection and better airflow control (I assume), and it’s best practice to have a sensor to protect from user error. If the sensor is already there, why not also use it during the print?

I think the choice comes down to what one values more, the AMS or open firmware. I think the AMS is a fantastic addition, not for multi-color printing, but as a convenient and dry storage solution. All cloud features can be disabled, it perfectly works in the local network including live camera feed. You only loose access to the app, which I didn’t want to install to my all foss phone anyway.

The X1 series uses an application processor with linux under the hood, and it was just a matter of time before it got jailbroken. The P1 series on the other hand uses some microcontroller, which can be locked down much better (and thus is not compatible with the new “open” firmware). I’m exited to see where this goes, and will definitely give up my guarantee in exchange for rooting my printer.

Droidify is the best! Best performance and UI of all compatible clients, and even handles 3rd repos that wont load on others.

Thanks for the heads up, my setup is indeed 6-12 months old. My thoughts on the linked list:

• uBlock origin is the #1 recommended plugin, and can make some other plugins redundent, see below
• Decentraleyes only helps only for some scripts/sites and may be fingerprintable. Considering that it targets major CDNs and it’s widespread use, I still think it’s benefits outweigh the possible downside, especially if used in conjunction with a good VPN, so its optional but I’d keep it.
• Privacy Badger used to be unique in that it creates a custom blocking list based on your behavior. There was some security and privacy vulnerability with this method, so it’s no longer done. It depends now solely on a pre-trained list just like uBlock origin, offers no additional features and should be removed.
• Cookie extensions may give you a false sense of privacy as they do nothing for IP tracking or other vectors. However they do patch one area, and are useful if used correctly and together with other methods.
• noscript is technically covered by uBlock origin as well, but the UI is far superior and you’ll be using that a lot.
• Canvas Blocker was an optional plugin to begin with, and starting Firefox 120 the FPP (Fingerprint Protection) can subtly randomize canvas, hopefully with less problems. You should be using this build in feature instead of the plugin.
• Font Fingerprint Defender is the one plugin that broke tracking on fingerprint.com, combined with VPN IP change, despite javascript being enabled. If you care about privacy, and not anonymity, you should still be using this.

Edit: Crossed out slightly out of date recommendations, see comments.

Do not confuse privacy with anonymity. Your goal is not to defend against governments or other entities with limitless resourced, but against profit oriented companies. By reducing the amount of data you leak and obfuscating what is left, your data becomes progressively worthless as you improve your setup. This is a good thing, because companies will focus their limited resources on areas with a higher profit margin.

Given your description, I think the network side of IT security is pretty much top notch, firmly in the top 0.1% if not 0.01% of users. However most of the tracking happens at the browser level, so it alone does not protect you that much.

Firefox is a solid base, but it is optimized to not break any websites, rather then providing maximum privacy. You can try to tweak settings manually, but I’d rather recommend you to use LibreWolf on PC and Mull on Android. Both are pre-configure, hardened versions of Firefox, that also have proprietary Mozilla features like “Pocket” and some telemetry removed form the source. A standard install has basically no downsides, 99.9% of sites work normally and privacy is quite good.

Librewolf has ublock origin pre-installed and pre-configured with sane defaults. I’d recommend the following additional addons:

• Decentraleyes: Local CDC cache to reduce third party requests. Improves privacy, performance and doesn’t break anything. No configuration needed.
• Privacy Badger: Prevents some interactive features (disqus comment section, embedded youtube player, etc) from loading until explicitly confirmed with a mouse click. Also prevents some tracking in the background, but that might eb covered by ublock already.
• Cookie AutoDelete + I still don’t care about cookies: This combo silently suppresses all cookie pop-ups, allows them for the session and cleans up afterwards. This is different then disabling all cookies, and does not brake websites then rely on them while providing all privacy benefits.
• Disable WebRTC: WebRTC can leak your IP address, but disabling it breaks eg. real-time video calls. This plugin is a simple toggle, only turn it on when you need to.

If you are willing to do some fine tuning or accept broken sites, consider also:

• noscript: Most privacy leaks happen because of Javascript, but disabling it basically makes the modern web unusable. noscript offers a middle ground to enable/disable javascript on a domain-by-domain basis. Can be annoying at times, but arguably the best way to defend yourself.
• Canvas Blocker: WebGL powers most of the advanced visuals, and can read out a lot of data that is used for fingerprinting. This plugin can randomized requested data to protect you, but it also brakes sites in weird and unexpected ways. It’s powerful, but I rarely use it these days.

And finally consider some obfuscation techniques to throw of the remaining trackers. Right now I only use one, and highly recommend it because of its effectiveness:

• Font Fingerprint Defender: Using javascript, websites can read out the list of installed fonts on your device. Some programs install fonts in the background when opening a document with missing fonts, so this list is highly unique for each user and effective for tracking. The plugin throws is some noise, and causes automatic systems to detect you as a new unique user each time.

All of this throws off the vast majority of trackers, and puts you in the top 0.1% of users. Yes, this also makes you kinda “unique”, because websites may notice the effort you put in to defend yourself. Bad idea if you try to hide from the government, you should be using TOR for that anyway, but great to signal companies that you are not worth the squeeze.

Keep your head up bro. The situation is not as terrible as it may seem, but companies want you to believe that, so that you don’t even try.