Doesn’t the “missed step detection” on the Prusa printers already achieve a lot of that? I think it monitors the current to the motor and flags any abnormal behavior, without needing extra hardware on the motor.
That’s not to knock the value of positional feedback, which is clearly superior, but just to say that I don’t think this idea has been entirely neglected.
You know that the other two words also exist though, right? Like, you can effect change in an organization, and there can be something strange in the affect of a psychopath. So there’s a verb “to effect” and a noun “affect” (although here the pronunciation is different–the accent is on the first syllable). It’s true that the most common usages follow the rules you’re laying out, but it genuinely is an oversimplification.
Frustratingly, these lists keep going out of date, because apps are marked as incompatible with new devices unless they’re constantly updated. So I have a limited number of recommendations. E.g. the game Trainyard was terrific, but it looks like you can’t get it anymore. Auro and Glyder 2 were also excellent. And Trap! was great on the original G1.
Some of these games also do have in-app purchases, but they’ll be strictly “you pay X money for Y more levels” deals, which is basically fine in my book. No currencies, no gatchapon, no “pay or wait” mechanics.
10000000 and You Must Build A Boat are fun match-3 games. No in-app purchases.
The Room 1, 2, and 3 are all escape-room games.
If you liked doing constructions in geometry, the games Euclidea and Pythagorea are both good.
Puzzle Retreat by The Voxel Agents is, well, a puzzle game. Pretty fun, good slow difficulty ramp.
The Quell games (Quell, Quell Reflect) are a bit like Puzzle Retreat, but I didn’t find they had as much variety. I got a little bored with them. They’re quite polished though.
Star Realms is a two-player card game with deck drafting mechanics, sort of like a cross between Dominion and Magic. It’s available as an actual physical deck game, but also as a decent android game with both multiplayer and a single-player campaign. Since it’s a drafting game (i.e. you both recruit from the same deck), buying card expansions just changes what mechanics are available to both players, so it’s never pay-to-win. I’m very fond of it.
Freitag is a single-player deck-drafting game. The android app isn’t the best thing ever but it works. It’s based on Robinson Crusoe.
Spaceplan is an increment game, a bit like Cookie Clicker or Clicker Heroes, but it’s got a plot and an ending and is over in a couple of days. Plus it’s really silly. Recommended.
Super Hexagon is a very brief action game. Only uses the edge of the screen as its two buttons, so it basically works despite the touch screen. It’s only got…I think it’s twelve levels total? I forget. I think I’ve gotten to level four. It’s better with the sound on, though.
Slay the Spire is another great deck building game. Touch controls aren’t perfect and the UI is kinda small on a phone, but the underlying game is good enough that it’s worth playing.
Ridiculous Fishing is a very simple game, but very well made.
Pinball Arcade is pretty good, though you have to pay for each individual table you want. There are always some free ones on any given day though. It was easier to recommend before they lost their Williams and Bally licenses, since then they had all the classics like Theater of Magic and Attack from Mars; now it’s all Stern tables unless you already own the old ones. The simulation quality is pretty good, though. It’s all a bit more forgiving than the real thing, but I don’t think that’s entirely a bad thing.
Bart Bonte’s games, which are all named after colors (black, blue, green, etc.) are pretty amusing. Not very difficult but kinda diverting for a bit. Kind of like an escape room game crossed with warioware? Each screen has unique touch-screen mechanics, and you have to figure them out to advance.
SetMania is a decent implementation of the card game Set. Make sure to turn off the (frankly bizarre) setting that randomizes your settings constantly.
Nonograms Katana is a pretty good nonogram (picross) game. Gotta buy levels though.
Monument Valley and 2 are kinda fun. Easy puzzles but diverting, with nice graphics.
If you find it fun to make fine distinctions between colors, I Love Hue is interesting. But I can also see other folks thinking that’s a circle of hell.
Oh, and I’m enjoying Cryptic Crossword by Teazel Inc. They’re not very difficult ones, and it would be nice if it had some kind of “explain” option for when you really can’t grok a clue even after seeing the answer. But you usually get an “aha” from most clues and the packs of puzzles aren’t too pricey.
There are a few more games I enjoyed, but that was at least partly because I got them from a Humble Bundle, and those versions had the in-app purchases turned into things you could earn in the game, which was way better. E.g. the Kingdom Rush games. I can’t really recommend the versions you can get now, because they’re all microtransactioned up. I think the same is true of some of the games I used to enjoy like Cut The Rope as well.
Emulation is also a good option, but if you don’t want to bother with that there are a few purchasable apps that will basically do it for you, like Sega’s Shining Force games.
Hope this helps someone. I wrote it up partly to get myself to organize the things in my own brain.
Oh, I literally misread it as OpenSCAD. Laughing at my stupid brain right now.
I’d say it’s more like Premiere vs ffmpeg.
I wouldn’t really call it a favorite, but I definitely ended up liking Nier: Automata pretty well after bouncing off it really hard when trying it at a friend’s house. That’s because we were trying from the start, and it starts with a section that’s about half an hour long, with only two checkpoints, vastly harder than anything else in the game, and in which the first half isn’t even the same genre as the rest of the game. It’s seriously one of the worst intros I can think of in a video game. The rest of the game is, y’know, a pretty good third-person action RPG.
The timeline should be at the bottom of the editor window, if you’re in the default design workspace. If you started in the mesh editor workspace then “design history” might be turned off, in which case you wouldn’t have a timeline. It looks like this:
https://help.autodesk.com/cloudhelp/ENU/Fusion-Assemble/images/animation/timeline-groups.gif
If some of the icons are highlighted in yellow, those have errors, so, things like broken projection links, or missing objects for some operations. You can usually fix those and patch things up.
Edit: oh, sorry, just realized you were working from someone else’s file. That might not have design history turned on. The person who told you how to edit the extrusion operation has the right idea.
Did you get any warnings or errors when you changed the parameters? Are any of the elements in your timeline highlighted in yellow?
Fair enough, I only got in to the hobby around 2015. But site issues were another reason that a lot of folks migrated to printables recently, so I do think it’s possible that’s part of what Fogle was referring to.
FWIW though, I suspect that a lot of the folks here in the Fediverse do actually care about open source, open standards, and the value in defending truly public resources.
Well, also just that the site had kind of deteriorated from lack of maintenance–the search didn’t work (you had to use Google with site:thingiverse.com), model pages were incredibly slow to load, etc. They’ve fixed a lot of that recently, but for a year or so it seemed borderline unusable.
Could still be temperature if the thermistors on e printers read differently–that is, the same setting doesn’t necessarily work out to the same physical temperature on two printers, even if they’re the same model, because the thermistors vary. My suspicion would be that you’re printing a little hot, and the filament is contracting after it’s extruded. On the first few layers it can’t shrink much because of all the material in the middle, but on the vase mode layers there’s nothing preventing it.
Another possibility is that your overlap percentage between your infill and perimeters is too high. This leads to something that basically is overextrusion, but it’s usually visible as more of a ripple.
A third possibility is that it’s just the filament.
Note that it also breaks our privacy if we view the link. Caution is advised.
It’s not FOSS, and it’s been a few years since I used it, but I used to rely on Jota text editor. It was a very straightforward one, no bells and whistles, but that was kinda what I wanted from it. It didn’t get unmanageable when using very large files, and if I recall correctly I think it also handled both Unix and Windows line endings, which mattered to me.
Not sure if it’s still good, though. I don’t do nearly as much weird stuff with my phone as I used to.
I just use swipe typing, but my dad absolutely loves MessagEase, which is basically a 9-key keyboard. The gimmick is that every letter is a gesture; nine letters are just taps, and everything else (including some punctuation) you start on one of those nine keys and swipe in one of eight directions (up, left, upper left, etc.). I think there are a couple of other large keys, like a space bar at the bottom and delete and “switch to numbers and extra punctuation” on the right, but you mainly use the nine for words. It’s not terrible, and he’s gotten moderately fast at it. Might be worth a look.
Edit: Oh, I’ve just seen that MessagEase is now unmaintained, and the “thumbkey” mentioned in another comment is basically a replacement. So I guess this is just another recommendation for that keyboard! Oops.
It also doesn’t with with PLA and ABS. Same issue, they won’t stick together well.
And when you say “laser or printer” here, are you referring to a 2d printer, or a 3d printer?
The questions are because, fundamentally, a wireframe image like the one you linked is just a different way of rendering the same file. So if what you want is literally an image like this, then there are tools to do that, which will depend a bit on what operating system you’re using. Blender, as mentioned in another comment, is one such option.
If, on the other hand, what you want is a 3d printable structure that resembles a wireframe rendering of the object, that’s a more complicated task. The STL file just lists the triangles that make up the surface of the object; in order to make a solid structure that resembles this, you’d need to create a solid (e.g. a cylinder, maybe with balls at the ends) for every edge in the file (3n / 2 edges for n triangles, since every edge in a properly printable [“manifold”] STL is shared by two triangles) and then takes a boolean union of all of them. I don’t think a tool to do this exists currently, as it’s a rather specialized need, but it wouldn’t be too hard to throw together a python script that could take an STL file and generate an OpenSCAD script that you could then render with OpenSCAD to get the STL.
That’s wild! Sorry that’s happening to you.
For me it’s under Settings, Privacy and Security, Device Lock, Fingerprint Unlock. I removed my fingerprints from it the other day, though, because it was so inconsistent at unlocking my phone that it seemed faster to just use a numeric code.
In addition to “format shifting,” which is a well-recognized use case, and game preservation, which is a huge and under-recognized public interest in emulator development, emulators are also used for the development of homebrew software. E.g., there’s a port of Moonlight for the Switch, which lets you play Steam games streamed from a PC using your Switch, letting it serve many of the purposes of a Steam Deck. That’s huge! It would be way less practical to develop this kind of software if you could only test on real hardware. Testing on real hardware is also essential, of course, but testing on an emulator is vastly faster for rapid iteration.