JimmyBigSausage@lemm.ee is at least partly right, it’s an Ethan Allen table from the 80’s. Link to below shows what it looks like with all it’s parts. This website also lists it as pine.

The internet wasn’t really a thing back then so it’s unlikely we’ll find much more unless there is a digitized catalog posted somewhere.

https://www.chairish.com/product/13353256/ethan-allen-old-tavern-dining-table-extending-to-96-vintage-1980s

Another link where you can see the markings which match your photos. https://www.auctionninja.com/sistersincharge/product/ethan-allen-old-tavern-solid-wood-dining-table-with-5-wooden-dining-chairs-2-leafs-table-pads-included-78941.html

It’s called the cyberwiper :D

Agree with this post here. Adding to this thought:

Outside of initial provisioning/firmware updates. This server should only need to reboot once a month for OS/firmware security updates and maintenance. Maybe less/more depending on your organizations security posture. OP said they’re running VM’s so I don’t understand the concern with the boot time. Once you provision the host you don’t really tinker with any setting unless your adding hardware to updating firmware/os.

If the boot time is really that big a deal, get a second host and setup replication/vmotion with your VM’s to eliminate the host boot time from affecting your uptime entirely.

Those are indestructible and still being made today. I have one from the 1970’s that works exactly the same as one made in the 2010’s.

Here is the manufacturer site where you can buy replacement seals: https://www.bialetti.com/it_en/moka-express.html

Manual: https://www.bialetti.com/media/manual/caffettiere/MOKA_EXPRESS-manual.pdf

Parts: https://www.bialetti.com/it_en/set-of-3-gaskets-and-1-filter-holder-for-4-cup-model.html

Kbin has a moderated filter which is nice

This should be a rule in the sidebar so people know before posting.

Thank you!

Or in the case OP, they bought pressure treated wood which is literally injected with moisture (chemicals) to prevent decay. If you ever picked up a piece of fresh PT lumber it is HEAVY from all the moisture. Best to let it dry a couple weeks before working with it.

To add to this: around 50% humidity is generally a good target to set for indoors.

Check out wave things. They make all in one CO2, radon, humidity, temp monitors. Good for long term monitoring of radon and other undesirable things.

Things that were built to code in 1986 may no longer be up to code in 2023. When making improvements it is a best practice to bring things up to current codes, but not always a requirement.

Towns don’t generally send inspectors around to enforce codes unless you’ve done major obvious stuff like add a bathroom. However, if you ever go to sell the house, smaller code violations can come up during an inspection.

My hot water heater doesn’t have an expansion tank either, but it is on an open connection to the municipal water supply which acts as one. I plan to add a PRV which makes it a closed system and would necessitate an expansion tank. I don’t believe there is any harm in adding an expansion tank to an open system, other than cost.

For the pressure relief air gap. The 2015 IRC code in New York for example requires that it discharge to an air gap inside the building. You can then drain it outside from there.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2015NY/chapter-28-water-heaters/IRC2015-Pt07-Ch28-SecP2804.6.1

I’m not sure why a drain pan would not fit. They add a negligible amount of height and aren’t much wider in diameter than the heater itself.

Electrical panel clearance see section E3405.1 workspace clearance. 30" width, 36" depth, 6’5" height. The 30" can start at the edge of the panel if you’ve got the room on the other side. It’s probably fine, but hard to tell from the picture angle.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018/chapter-34-general-requirements

By all means, I think you did a great job and there likely won’t be any issue with the installation. These are just observations from a code compliance perspective.

Windows are usually towards the end of the list of things to upgrade. What’s your insulation situation like? Attic, walls, ductwork? Have you done a leak test to see where conditioned air is escaping? Has your AC been serviced and in good operating order?

I’d check all those out before replacing windows. As other poster suggested. Especially if you have windows that are in good condition otherwise.

Electrical panel clearance may be an issue. Think you need like 30" width clearance which can be off-center to push it up to the panel edge. Looks tight from the picture.

Add some fire blocking on the wall penetrations if that is going to an interior wall from a garage.

Is your pex rated to handle the pressure relief valve temperatures and is the inner diameter equal to or larger than the valve opening?

Is there an air gap on your pressure relief drain? (can’t see where it terminates.

Might need an expansion tank

What is the square footage of the space it was installed in? There’s usually a minimum requirements for heat pump units to function properly.

As others said: drain pan, straps

Had a nicer formatting post writen but lost it when trying to post during site outage.

If you are on municipal water and there is no check valve between you and the water meter then the municipal water supply is acting as the expansion tank. It may not be to code in your area but that’s how many homes were built in the past.

You have what appears to be a BX cable penetrating and indoor wall to a garage. This needs fire stopping to meet code.

Here is Hilti’s drawing showing the wall assembly and how it can be fire stopped with their products. The optional metal conduit pictured would make it cleaner but also require disconnecting the cable.

https://files-ask.hilti.com/original/eg/eg5q3zprsz.pdf

I don’t know about you but I regulary text my friend to ask how their fur trees are doing.