I just use nextcloud as a target for backups (Aegis, Signal, QkSMS). Apps such as KeePassDX I have load the file via nextcloud. My contacts and calendar go through it as well, photos are just set to auto upload along with a few other directories.

As for the home screen layouts, I just take screenshots once I have it how I like and try to remember to take them again if I change stuff.

It’s not a full backup but I’m back up and running fairly quickly (Pixel 5A died on me 3 times in under a one year lifespan per device).

I don’t own Prusas but I migrated from super slicer to prusaslicer and being able to cut models and add locating pegs easily is such a game changer for larger parts

Really depends on the make, you can get Mitchell and AllData prior to the subscription model (takes about a TB of space, from 1980s to 2013) to help with diagrams and disassembly and reassembly. Mitchell’s wiring diagrams really are a lifesaver.

Dealer level software/scanner combo you can get from obdii365, I got a Hyundai scanner from them and it worked well but you want to run the software in a VM or isolate it some other way and probably wouldn’t network it.

Vxdiag is pretty solid as well for the dealer software/scanner and you can usually get via Amazon but again I wouldn’t trust the software. I have their ford one and used it with IDS to set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack.

The software itself you can find via Google if it’s all you need but typically the scanner is very specific to the software for the dealership stuff

Be careful depending on the model, some of those run hot. I managed to kill one in under 2 weeks just by copying a large amount of data to it and had to print a fan shroud for it’s replacement to keep the temps at a reasonable level.

I would never go back from qubes. VirtualGL seems promising for the hardware accelerated apps and GPU passthrough for a gaming VM is insane

I use iptvini since it’s pretty cheap ($80 for 2 years). For us it’s really just an easy way to watch some sports, running the arr stack and Jellyfin so any shows we’re watching just go through that since ads on TV suck lol

Can connect with Infuse to your server, swiftfin has a ways to go to be ready for primary use

I see no reason to not use both. Got a show you’re watching that has new releases? Have Sonarr track it and auto download them as they release. Want to try a new show but not sure you’ll like it or just a single season? Debrid.

I will say, Jellyfin with Infuse on apple tv is rather easy to use for non technical people where they would struggle with stremio a little more.

Still a far cry from the early XBMC/Kodi days where you had to manually try like 20 sources before you could watch both options really are great

Heavily agree, a lot of content had issues playing for me with swiftfin. No issues at all with Infuse other than the fact that intro skipper doesn’t work with it

Lidarr for most, soulseek (slskd) for anything Lidarr can’t get in FLAC

IPTV working well so far for me, YouTube TV used to be decent but they jacked the prices up

I remember watching the trailer for that game over and over and over, the first one you could go outside

What’s up dog?

Unsure on the sharks but a lot of the roombas have an open source project (ha980?) that lets you run all the Apis locally and cut it off from the internet fully. Mines managed through home assistant now, it’s not perfect but it beats the heck out of that shitty iRobot app

I have one of those cheap TCL Roku TVs, I think it was something like $130 for a 55 inch a few years ago on sale.

I put it on a VLAN then added a rule just for it to only ever allow communication to my Jellyfin server. No internet, no other devices, Wireless AP isolation, just able to access that port on that address.

It works ok but it does nag me that it’s not connected when opening Jellyfin, cheaper than adding a dedicated TV box to it though! I tried a similar setup with an old Fire TV and it really doesn’t like being “offline” like that and makes you navigate through the settings to open any of the apps.

If I were buying new I’d try to go for a monitor for sure, it’s just not worth all the potential issues.

Mull with ublock origin, always on VPN to my house with pihole for DNS.

I use Firefox for the “installed” web pages for quick access to internal things like Sonarr since Mull would log me out fairly often.

I don’t think your particular case would have any creep as it’s not mechanically leveraged in any real way.

If you were to print something like a cupholder for a stroller or bike where it’s holding something up with some weight while in the heat is where you would notice it especially with repeated impact. Most likely wouldn’t outright fail but under constant load you would notice it starting to bend a little. That said you can absolutely over engineer it to prevent that rather than switching materials which can be a huge pain depending on the printer.

I did my hydroponic tower in PETG but it honestly would’ve been ok in PLA since it’s just a static fixture. I’ve had a PLA badge on my car for 3 years in 110+ summers and similar to you I’ve only noticed fading on the raised white lettering.

I’ve got 3 Wyze cam v3s running the wyze mini hacks firmware sectioned off in a VLAN that can only reach Frigate (no internet).

I have frigate running on a cheap Lenovo M900 I got on ebay for $65 that has an i7 and 8gb of memory and it actually does fairly well without the Google coral USB TPU as long as that was the only service on that system. Trying to run Frigate on my NUC with other services without a TPU caused some issues with CPU usage but with a TPU I would bet it’ll all run on the one system.

Home assistant works exceptionally well for notifying, one of my cameras I have on UDP since the signal isn’t great and get a couple artifacts that trip it up but other than that it has been much quicker to notify and more reliable than anything in the consumer market I’ve tried so far.

I started with openscad and moved to freecad. Freecad is powerful but definitely not perfect but it has suited my needs fairly well.

I’m still a holdout for superslicer but I did migrate my profiles to PrusaSlicer for those sweet organic supports.

I just used a buck converter and a USB pigtail for mine so it still plugs into the pi where the power cable used to it’s just running off the Ender 3s power supply. They were fairly cheap on Amazon something like $6 for a pack

The only cables you really see for my printer are the short USB connecting the Pi to the SKR on the back, and the power supply cable. The rest is hidden or inside cable chains.

Definitely made moving the printer easier and much less of an eyesore of wiring.