I just let it run without the resin vat and the RERF default print (with the characters) does actually trigger different exposures.

But yeah, the filename is super important as it triggers a test mode where the plate is exposed at 8 different spots at 8 different times per layer.

I’ll need to create my own test file and test it with and without the characters. It’s something I can test, but was hoping someone knew off the top of their head. (I was in the middle of my first ever resin print when I banged out this post, actually.)

Quick addendum: Cheap digital hygrometers from Amazon can be off by as much as 10% or more and are kinda pointless, poorly designed and a waste of batteries.

Simply using some color changing desiccant will save you a few bucks. (It’s something I use here in Colorado for my jars of… “entertainment products”… that is legal here, in addition to my filaments.)

There is desiccant available that is formulated to hold specific humidity levels but filament is better served by pure silica gel.

To be fair, some of their contests are not thought out very well and usually don’t have enough constraints defined. (It’s kinda pissed me off before too.)

I started to design one myself but realized it was a bad idea. For starters, and effective design wouldn’t use much plastic: Bamboo or other kinds of material used for the tubes already stack together really well and it is much easier to stack them in a box glued together or use thin wire to bind them. Any additional design components translates to waste, IMHO.

And like you said, the plastic is bad to keep outside. If it wasn’t for the moisture, direct sunlight would deform most common materials.

Yeah, I got several replacement bits from them for no charge. It’s also super easy to get past their level 1 support if you present an issue clearly and with evidence. (… as opposed to being forced to perform every step in a level 1 playbook. (DiD yOu tUrN iT oN aNd oFf agAiN?))

I have been following the power loss recovery issues on GitHub for a while. They finally came out and said, on GitHub, that they can’t implement. It was super shady of them to just quietly delete that feature from their product page.

However: If your first layer is tuned correctly and you lose power long enough for the bed to cool down, the print (depending on the material) will likely pop off the bed anyway so power loss recovery is moot. IMHO, if the print is super important it should be supervised and attached to a beefy UPS.

Random rambling and opinions ahead.

It’s $10k if anyone was wondering but as far as commercial products go, that is still peanuts.

Prusa acquired the companies responsible for this product a couple years ago(?) and I believe it is a good thing that this product was in limbo for a bit. (It likely means a more refined product, but just speculation.)

Unfortunately, Prusa is not beyond beta testing with their customers or making false promises about future product features. (re: Prusa Mini, as a good example.) I only say this because if you were planning to buy this for production immediately, I would personally wait a few months.

That previous paragraph sounds bad, and it is, but their support channels are amazing and that is where most of the product cost is. My personal experience with Prusa support has always been excellent.

(I was a Mini early adopter, so I expected some rough edges. Power loss recovery functionality was quietly buried over the last couple of years as their original board+psu wasn’t up to the task.)

There is a large collection of poorly written articles/blogs on LinkedIn, actually. They are just bad enough to be good enough for Google.

Strangely enough, LinkedIn is owned by Microsoft. If Microsoft actually let Google use it as a data source, it was to sabotage Google’s AI training.

It’s been around for a while. It’s the fluff and the parlor tricks that need to die. AI has never been magic and it’s still a long way off before it’s actually intelligent.

Just isolate the problem, is the rule of thumb. If you can replicate the issue reliably, it’s fixable. At worst, it limits the number of variables you are working with, which is still awesome in its own way.

My only other thought would be a bizarre stepper motor skip, which would lead me to start checking wiring and such.

I don’t resin print, but it looks like there is a missing layer or two. The ripples in the interface layers at the bed were confusing me at first, but that seems like it they were formed in the resin not being attached to anything. The rest of the print is failing at the same layers of those strange ripples.

My guess would be a mechanical issue with the main Z screw, like there is something in that part of the thread that is causing it to lift a bit higher than it should. If it was completely loose, the rest of the print wouldn’t be viable.

Clean the threads of the screw and try to replicate that error at those layers with a test print. Isolate the problem, is my advice.

This part is really funky:

This was an old feature, before it could be disabled.

So, if my wife was in my contact list first and I was in hers, she would get notified when someone was added to mine.

It was something like, “X has joined Signal on Y’s phone!!” or some bullshit like that.

I was a huge Signal advocate at one time and would try to get everyone to install it and use it. Man, woman or child, I didn’t care who it was. I was worse than a crypto-bro trying to jam BTC down everyone’s throat.

I was chatting with a group of ladies at work and got a few of them to install it. When they did, Signal pushed notifications of them connecting to my wife’s phone.

Needless to say, I got questioned fairly intensely about why there were other girls connecting with me on Signal.

I wasn’t very keen on Signal after that.

I am not a huge fan of all the nuclear tests that happened, but the name of that one is absolutely epic.

Even if you had no idea what the tests were about, Starfish Prime just sounds evil to the core.

would just get frustrated and throw things.

Yeah. Most conservatives I know have short tempers and they get extremely carried away when they are in groups. I mean, it doesn’t matter what they are getting mad at, just as long as everyone is getting pissed off at the same time and about someone else or some other ideology. The key point is they believe they are victims of “the system” or “libruls” and not their own bad choices.

It’s very similar to how Putin is constantly crying about how Russia is a victim of NATO aggression, actually.

Just tell a person that their way of life is being attacked and that you have all the solutions.(Simplified Hermann Goering quote. Allegedly.)

Maybe. Depends on how often engine is overhauled, what it’s operating environment is and why the vehicle was kept operating for so long.

This guy was the real killer. The new RMcD is just the cover story.

I started looking into that and if the price is right, it’s not that far-fetched. (After all, I did get my ham radio license mainly so I could legally transmit up to 1000W in some cases…)

HVAC repair seems to be a lucrative business so it may be something to do on the side. The certification would be a great way to start that, actually.

Thanks for the additional info!

It is absolutely just more cost effective, safer and better piece of mind to just replace the breaker. I’ll take that route 99.99% of the time.

If you feel adventurous, there are a couple of ways to test that breaker without proper test equipment. The risks could be zero OR you blow your face off and burn your house down.

Find an open outlet at tap live to ground. This will produce some natural and organic indoor fireworks, but it should trip the breaker. If it doesn’t, there is a small risk of welding the wires together and creating a very strange short condition, turning that entire circuit into a new heat strip. (Free money!)

Find two 1800W space heaters and together, on the same circuit, they should trip the breaker as well. (Breakers should be rated to at least 1800W.) This is problematic as well and I’ll explain. There is something magical about space heaters as I have seen 2 or 3 run off of the same circuit before. I suspect that if a breaker is slowly warmed up due to heavy load it will change its characteristics, causing it to only trip at higher loads. (Absolute speculation on my part!) By default, I would replace the breaker if I saw that kind of load. Extended, and higer heat cycles will eventually damage the breaker.

Are you in their buyable models section? They recently opened up a way for creators to sell models.

Yeah, I would think memory as well due to the screen artifacts in that low res mode. (That depends on how x86 memory is mapped these days, I suppose.)