Here’s an archive link for a windows binary: https://archive.org/download/ryujinx-1.1.1403-win_x64

PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…

That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.

From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.

There’s a request made here. Haven’t seen devs reply yet though.

I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.

Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.

If you’re running it in docker you can just check the logs, I do it like this: docker compose logs -f lemmy, and see if you have requests from any instance in the log stream. For me it goes pretty fast, but you can always ctrl+c to exit and scroll up to see what you’ve missed. Might not be the most optimal way, but it works for me.

Had to replace my UPS battery just a few days ago after a power outage reminded me that a replacement was well overdue. I share your feeling, now I can sleep knowing a power blip won’t knock out my servers and mess up my data.

Yea, true, water reservoir, top part where coffee gathers, coffee basket, gasket and a filter. No I don’t use soap as you said, only water. I guess I’m just lazy, and doing it in the morning when I’m short on time, playing around with a hot pot is kinda not the thing I’d like to do. That’s why I use a phin most of the time, as it’s just a thin and light piece of steel, and it cools off really quickly, easy to clean and no need to worry about corrosion and sum such. To be honest I’d have to try how it’d work out, as I never used it day to day. I always had this notion that a moka pot, being made out of aluminium, doesn’t like to sit in water. I don’t know for sure how true it is, but to be on the safe side I always rinsed it thoroughly and wiped it dry. Maybe I was overdoing it?

Same, my 3tz takes 18 grams. Also taking it off is kinda tricky cause of thermal inertia. Pot is still hot enough to boil the water after taking it off the heat, but that might be due to its higher mass. Anyway, experiment, making coffee is fun.

Had to come back home from work. I guess calling it “intense” would be appropriate. I’ve missed the coffee fountain, the bubbles and the thick black coffee that this method produces. What I don’t miss is the waiting and watching, cause it won’t turn itself off when it’s done, and the eventual hassle of cleaning the pot and all its parts every time I want a coffee. Oh well, nature of the beast I guess. Still, worth going through it when one craves a strong cup of coffee.

Ohh, haven’t done that in forever. Now I miss making coffee this way. I guess I’ll dust off my pot today, see if it still brews good.

Yea, I had to make a crontab task that resets lemmy every day. Hope it gets fixed in the future but for now it sorta works.

This may help: Container compatibility. MKV files will be remuxed when played via WebUI. Try playing an MP4 file and see if it’s the same.

Yes, they are. I pre-measure the amount in the evening and in the morning, while the kettle is getting hot, I grind it and put it into a Phin (vietnamese coffee filter, you’d be surprised how good it is) well before the water’s ready. While it takes its time to drip I cook up something quick to eat… and that’s been my morning for the last few years :D

Manual grinders aren’t bad, unless you go for the cheap ones. For example, my Comandante grinder has a steel conical burr, but most of the cheaper ones come with ceramic. The thing is, the thing’s sharp, I could actually cut myself if I wasn’t careful during cleaning, opposed to the ceramic burrs that are pretty blunt (from what I’ve heard, never had one). That makes grinding coffee a breeze (maybe 20-30secs for ~13grams for a cup of coffee), even on finer settings, also it introduces less dust, as it doesn’t crush the beans but cuts them into fine bits. There are many models of manual grinders that come with great burrs, some of are of the Chinese make if price is an issue (1zpresso for example).

Flat burrs are an electric grinder thing. The mechanics of grinding with those is a little different than with conical ones, but the result is pretty much the same. Electric grinders can come with both conical or flat burrs. I’ve got an absolute overkill of a grinder meant for commercial use, bought used for around $300. The thing is a beast, takes less than 5secs for ~20g of coffee. I wouldn’t suggest you get one (Mazzer Super Jolly FYI), just because of its size, but anything with that kind of build quality is likely gonna last you a literal lifetime. There are some more reasonably sized consumer electric grinders though, I heard Wilfa Svart is decent, some other might be fine as well.

Since I’ve started automating stuff I’ve got myself an Acurite wireless fridge and freezer thermometer (initially found out about it on Reddit, before it all went to shit and all). It both has a nice magnetic display and it transmits in 433MHz band, so a SDR dongle plugged into my Home Assistant machine can receive the temp readouts. So far it didn’t prevent any disasters, but at least I know how hot it needs to get for the fridge to start having trouble keeping cool.

There’s a freeware (open source but copyrighted art) shooter called World of Padman, that’s pretty much what you’re describing.

EDIT: You wanted “modern” but, it’s slightly less so. Sorry.

AndOTP is no longer maintained. I’d suggest switching to something still supported, like Aegis for example.

Ironically Nitter stopped working lately, since Twitter started requiring users to be logged in to read anything.