We water by soaking the plants in the tub, then letting them sit on towels before going back on the shelf. A bit tedious but only has to be done every 1-2 months.
We water by soaking the plants in the tub, then letting them sit on towels before going back on the shelf. A bit tedious but only has to be done every 1-2 months.
This is how I did it with my old board. My new board has a jumper to toggle between powering via USB and not.
Extraction is heavily controlled by amount of water, temperature, grind size, and time.
To get an under extracted brew, you would use more water with a shorter brew time with a course grind at a lower temperature. This should give you something that’s sour, weak, watery, with a thin mouthfeel.
Overextraction would be the opposite. Boiling water in a preheated brewing device, fine grind, less water, steeped for a longer time. This should taste dark, bitter, burnt, strong, with a soupy grimy mouthfeel.
You can make one cup of each at the extremes to taste the difference, and then use that information to tweak your regular brew one variable at a time. Look up the coffee compass to help understand what you’re tasting and which direction to move.
As opposed to Cole’s law, which is a finely shredded cabbage salad
That’s a good point, I thought about that too. Not sure how sturdy that would be. I’d probably step on it and break it eventually.
Do you prefer frame or finish/trim?
What’s something you do to help the next guy in the process?
Agreed, it was a ton of work. The back of the saw was definitely the biggest struggle because of how the motor moved when adjusting tilt and height.
Sealing the blade shroud might have worked. I’d probably try that first if I did this again.
But you make ten coffee tables and you break even. And then it’s all profit
I used PLA+ with no complaints so far
It worked pretty well for the ~10 long thin rips I did.
Holding up fine even after dropping it. Definitely works. And I decided to print the model I found with modular bits so I could reprint and replace the broken feathers when that eventually happens, instead of reprinted entire body.
I wish I could give you an academic answer, but I was going off of a similar design and thought if it works there, it should work here.
Honestly I’m a bit worried about the corners, but they feel stable enough.
I used pocket screws and wood glue at each shelf attachment to the frame. The shelf slats are all glued edge grain to edge grain, so in theory the entire shelf should act like a solid board.
I can barely code fibonacci, doubt I could model it
Ender, prusa, bambu are names that have popularity, longevity, and reputation.
You can find a ton of recommendations and best printer lists with a quick search. You would probably be fine with most printers on those lists if you wanted to save some money, but the above three are solid and give you a good budget range already.
There’s a little bit of movement but it’s not too annoying. When loaded up with belts, taking one off doesn’t make a big difference.
We take them off and soak in the sink or a bin. Succulents need infrequent but deep watering. I watered them once or twice the entire winter last year.
My personal solution was to not own any. But I have thought about it. Maybe a slot on both ends of the body to slide the knob of the buckle into. That would allow for two belts pretty easily.
Me, spending hours on Age of Empires 2 and loving it