nickwitha_k (he/him)

  • 4 Posts
  • 269 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
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Cake day: July 16th, 2023

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  • I don’t have any experience with resin printers yet but have been poking around at FDM for the better part of a decade. In that price range (for FDM), I’d likely suggest a Creality K1C. It is not going to likely match the BambuLab printers but it’s a great departure from previous by Creality, requiring little to no tinkering to make it work. If you can spare around $1k, and don’t care about proprietary stuff, BambuLab X1 series is about the most turnkey that I know of. But, again, the Creality is (surprisingly) right there too with the K1C.

    Note: It is probably possible to get similar results with mods to a K1 or K1Max - the nozzle brush seems to be critical to the K1C’s reliability.


  • Yeah. That’s absolutely fair. I would honestly recommend BambuLab for about anyone looking for a turnkey solution (supposing that they have the funds). For me, it’s a primarily philosophical/personal thing.

    I will say though that this new gen of printers is pretty incredible and getting to the point of nearly practical for non-3d printer enthusiasts. Even the K1C is remarkably functional out of the box. It didn’t need any mods to print accurately and reliability. The nozzle brush relocation mod, spool relocation mod, and full-fledged Klipper are not necessary - I just prefer textured PEI (no glue stick needed), easy spool changes, and the Mainsail UI (and customizability).

    Something that I’ll also give BambuLab, beyond their slick AMS, is their inspiration of more work on forks of PrusaSlicer. I switched to OrcaSlicer with the new printer, after being on Cura forever and the use experience is absolutely incredible.



  • I got a K1C a few months back and am buying but delighted with it. I came from a gen 1 Ender 3 with a warped bed. The only complaints that I’ve had are that the spool relocation included should include relocation of the runout sensor and the nozzle cleaner should not be part of the build plate (fixable with an easy mod).

    Closed source firmware on a 3d printer is just a non-starter for me. Even if the printer were 10x or 100x better, I’m not dropping that kind of dough on something that will leave me screwed if the manufacturer decides to enshitify or goes bankrupt.





  • By acting as a man-in-the-middle with the ability to read unencrypted message data (absolutely required in order to try to match against known CSAM), this is absolutely providing a backdoor as well as undermining privacy and security. By needing to trust another party, there is now a greater threat surface which is outside of end user control. One compromised account with access to that third-party is all it would take to extract private details from any messages, undetected, whether for sale on there blackmarket or for suppressing political dissidents, that’s exactly where this would go and we know this because state actors have been caught doing it and getting their toolkits leaked to criminals.

    This kind of law doesn’t make children or regular people any safer.



  • I have a first gen pair of Airs that I absolutely love, except for the lack of open-ness. I think that I’ll have to try dumping the firmware and writing my own at some point - likely when I have to replace the frames (have had to CA glue and tape the right arm three times now; I’m rough on my electronics). The teardowns that I’ve seen show that they contain almost entirely common off-the-shelf components (MCU, IMU, I/O expander, etc), so, shouldn’t be too bad to implement via Arduino or Rust.

    The thing that drives me most crazy though is the lack of forethought on the Beam. It does it’s job great but they didn’t bother to have a dedicated power-in or support high enough wattage to run it off of external power. It’s absolutely maddening to have to recharge it 3/4 of the way through work. Think I’ll be modifying it to add a USB-PD input for power.