[Review] Chatillon Lux’ TSM Fougère
Waaaaay back in 2016 (if my internet sleuthing is accurate), Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux created a fougère for “The Shave Market” (Hence, the moniker “TSM").
Ok, so this is a new platform for many and I figure it wouldn’t hurt to cover some basics as a result. Fougère is French for the word “fern,” and typically when you smell “earthy green” notes in a soap, there’s a good chance that what you’re smelling is “fern.” This is not to be confused with “vetiver,” which is typically characterized as more “grassy” as a scent note.
#Scent
TSM is a particularly “dirty” fern within the genre, with a lot of earthy and mossy notes to complement the overall green-ness. To make a real-world comparison, imagine walking through a damp and misty forest in the Pacific Northwest. The smell of the undergrowth is what I mean by the earthy/mossy notes, while if you’ve ever picked tomatoes, if you snap a green stem, the smell is the “bright” green note.
The nearest comparison for my nose is Barrister and Mann’s Reserve Fern (which I believe has been discontinued). Reserve Fern is very good, but is a deeper, darker, and smoother fern, while TSM Fougere has dark notes and bright notes.
#Performance
I absolutely forgot that L&L (now Declaration Grooming’s) Bison tallow base from this era is a monster of shave performance. The soap is thirsty, but is exceedingly dense and provides marvelous protection. This base is close in performance to my absolute favorite base, Barrister and Mann’s Reserve. The lather when underwatered is like a sticky marshmallow fluff, but with a bit more water develops great peaks… but it shaves really well either way. There was residual slickness that was suitable for extensive touchups and the post-shave feel was stellar. I can’t believe that we had soaps this good in 2016.
This makes me believe that we probably hit “peak-soap performance” a year or two after. We’re living in some amazing times!
#Overall
I don’t know what happened to both of the fougere scents that I loved so much. TSM Fougere became “Sylva” (Latin for forest is silva), from what I can tell. Currently Barrister and Mann only makes “Fern” in their bath soap line anymore. Hopefully, they’ll both bring it back, because I would be absolutely interested in purchasing another. Fern scents such as these are both perfect for Spring and Summer because they aren’t spicy, they aren’t gourmand, they aren’t citrus, and they aren’t sweet. They’re distinct as a scent category and won’t become monsters in summer heat.
I received no compensation in any way, shape, or form for this review.
I should have picked up some Fougres at Maggards. I feel like I’d love them.
Next time you’re buying soap, grab a sample or two. You definitely won’t regret it.