So, I’ve been meaning to try myself at rescaling straight razors. I’ve had a Wade and Butcher hollow ground and an unnumbered Friodur 8/8 with busted scales, a Torrey blade without scales, replacement scales, and pinning sets lying ready for months, and today I used a company-wide R&R day (i.e., Djunior in daycare, wife working) to get my feet wet. Also, it was a great excuse to get a tiny drill press😅
I got cheap plastic scales for the Torrey as training scales, and pretty Ralf Aust horn scales for the Wade and Butcher and the giant Friodur.
It turns out that the whole process is a little fiddly,
but overall more straight forward and easy than I anticipated, and I’m overall quite happy with the result,
just that the cheap plastic scales on the Torrey close off centre.
Nothing major though, and they were meant as the training scales to mess up anyway😅
Not a full blown polishing station, but i do have floppy wheels, and cotton and rubber cones for that Proxxon drill that you can see in the drill press, and I’ve polished my first Rubberset with it 😅
It turns out that the whole process is a little fiddly,
I have not replaced scales, but I have re-pinned a razor. Just removing the pin was fiddly for me and seems that way in the videos I’ve watched. I don’t have a tiny drill press, but I gaffer-taped the razor to a piece of wood with a hole drilled for the pin on the razor’s underside. Then I used a tiny punch on the top-side pin and carefully hand drilled it.
I’m probably way over-thinking this, but if you already have a small drill press, a tiny end mill might be a good way to remove a pin because it can cut horizontally (to remove some of the peened surface) as well as vertically.
I’ve done that too. I have small Hakko flush cutters (too delicate) that I use for electronics and cable flush cutters (general purpose). I used the larger cutters but worried that I would damage the scales with them. It’s probably just an experience thing. I’ve done very little of this.
Yessir. I just unpinned and cleaned up someone’s razor a couple weeks using this method. If your tool is free of damage and smooth, it shouldn’t really be an issue. I might also add that I crimp a side then rotate and make the actual cut to help minimize the force needed.
I think replacing scales is much easier. I just cut the pins of with a flush cutter. A tiny one sold for trimming solder leads was enough, the pins are soft. Probably some copper nickel alloy.
I have mill bits just like you describe for this. I’ve used them to mill aluminium before, so I’m thinking they would work well on the pins.
So, I’ve been meaning to try myself at rescaling straight razors. I’ve had a Wade and Butcher hollow ground and an unnumbered Friodur 8/8 with busted scales, a Torrey blade without scales, replacement scales, and pinning sets lying ready for months, and today I used a company-wide R&R day (i.e., Djunior in daycare, wife working) to get my feet wet. Also, it was a great excuse to get a tiny drill press😅
I got cheap plastic scales for the Torrey as training scales, and pretty Ralf Aust horn scales for the Wade and Butcher and the giant Friodur.
It turns out that the whole process is a little fiddly,
but overall more straight forward and easy than I anticipated, and I’m overall quite happy with the result,
just that the cheap plastic scales on the Torrey close off centre.
Nothing major though, and they were meant as the training scales to mess up anyway😅
And the others turned out great
Congrats! Next, I see a jewelers polishing station in your future :)
Not a full blown polishing station, but i do have floppy wheels, and cotton and rubber cones for that Proxxon drill that you can see in the drill press, and I’ve polished my first Rubberset with it 😅
That looks great! Awesome job!
Thanks buddy!
I have not replaced scales, but I have re-pinned a razor. Just removing the pin was fiddly for me and seems that way in the videos I’ve watched. I don’t have a tiny drill press, but I gaffer-taped the razor to a piece of wood with a hole drilled for the pin on the razor’s underside. Then I used a tiny punch on the top-side pin and carefully hand drilled it.
I’m probably way over-thinking this, but if you already have a small drill press, a tiny end mill might be a good way to remove a pin because it can cut horizontally (to remove some of the peened surface) as well as vertically.
I’ve always just used flush cutters and a punch to get pins free. So far it hasn’t caused an issue for me.
I’ve done that too. I have small Hakko flush cutters (too delicate) that I use for electronics and cable flush cutters (general purpose). I used the larger cutters but worried that I would damage the scales with them. It’s probably just an experience thing. I’ve done very little of this.
Was that on scales that you wanted to save? I’m not sure I’d manage to unoi remove a pin with a flush cutter without some damage to the scales
Yessir. I just unpinned and cleaned up someone’s razor a couple weeks using this method. If your tool is free of damage and smooth, it shouldn’t really be an issue. I might also add that I crimp a side then rotate and make the actual cut to help minimize the force needed.
Interesting! I have a Heljestrand I’m planning to unpin for a good clean up, keeping the scales. I’ll give this a try.
I think replacing scales is much easier. I just cut the pins of with a flush cutter. A tiny one sold for trimming solder leads was enough, the pins are soft. Probably some copper nickel alloy.
I have mill bits just like you describe for this. I’ve used them to mill aluminium before, so I’m thinking they would work well on the pins.
I’m impressed by all the gifted people here! Good job, and very good illustrated write up!
Thanks!
Nice work!
Thanks! It was fun 😊